Gemstone Education

Coloured stones, one at a time, with honest advice on what each can take

Chapter 7 of 15

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Chosen With the Heart as Much as the Eye

A coloured stone says something a diamond cannot. It signals personality, taste and choice: a stone selected for the wearer rather than for the wedding industry.

Coloured gemstones are described by three qualities of colour rather than the Four Cs. Hue is the colour family, tone is how light or dark it appears, and saturation is how vivid or muted it is. Strong, evenly distributed colour at a medium tone almost always looks more beautiful than a darker but patchy stone, and clarity standards are looser: most coloured stones contain visible inclusions, and that is entirely normal.

The most valuable colour is not always the best colour for the wearer. A dark sapphire may be technically impressive and still look heavy on the hand. Colour also shifts between daylight, office light and candlelight, which is why we always show stones in more than one light.

Stone by Stone

Eight Gemstone Guides

Each page covers colour range, hardness, treatments, what to watch and how to set it.

  • Daily wear

    Sapphire

    Mohs 9, eleven colours, and the best all-round coloured gemstone for daily wear. Read the guide.

  • Daily wear

    Ruby

    Red corundum, Mohs 9, and one of the few stones that can outprice diamond. Read the guide.

  • With care

    Emerald

    An unmatched green with a jardin, low toughness and a need for protection. Read the guide.

  • With care

    Aquamarine

    Soft sea-blue beryl, clean and affordable at larger sizes. Read the guide.

  • With care

    Morganite

    Peach-pink beryl, and the rose gold pairing everyone asks for. Read the guide.

  • Occasional

    Tanzanite

    Violet-blue, single-source, and more delicate than it looks. Read the guide.

  • Occasional

    Opal and Fire Opal

    Play-of-colour like nothing else, and the care it genuinely needs. Read the guide.

  • Mixed

    Other Gemstones

    Garnet, spinel, tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, peridot, topaz and moonstone. Read the guide.

Setting the Stone

The Metal Changes the Colour

The same stone reads differently depending on what surrounds it. Choose the pairing, not just the stone.

  • Platinum and White Gold

    Cooler and cleaner. White metals let a stone's own colour read accurately, and suit blues, greens and icy pastels.

  • Yellow Gold

    Warms a stone. Blues, greens and warm-toned stones feel richer against yellow gold, and it flatters antique cuts.

  • Rose Gold

    Softens pink, peach, champagne and purple tones. Morganite in rose gold is the most requested combination we make.

Before Anything Else

Match the Stone to the Life It Will Lead

Hardness resists scratching. Toughness resists chipping. They are different properties and the two are constantly confused, which is how people end up with an opal engagement ring they have to take off to do the washing up.

Read the durability guide
The Diamond and Gemstone Guide

The Diamond and Gemstone Guide

Free Download

The Diamond and Gemstone Guide

Every gemstone stone by stone, plus durability, treatments, ethical sourcing and grading reports.