Emerald
An unmatched green, and the realistic expectations it needs
About Emerald
Emerald is loved for its unmistakable green. It has a glow that few stones can match, and nothing else substitutes for it convincingly.
It is also more delicate than sapphire, ruby or diamond, and it needs honest expectations. Emeralds usually contain natural inclusions, known collectively as a jardin. These are part of emerald's character, but they also lower its fracture toughness. Emerald resists scratches well at Mohs 7.5 to 8, yet chips more readily than that hardness suggests.
Most emeralds are oiled to improve appearance. That treatment is normal and expected, and it should be understood before buying rather than after.
The Palette
Swatches are indicative. We will always show you the actual stone in more than one light.
Why Emerald Works
A colour nothing else matches
Green sapphire and tsavorite are excellent stones, but neither has emerald's particular glow. If it is emerald green you want, only emerald delivers it.
The May birthstone
And the twentieth and thirty-fifth anniversary stone, which makes it a common choice for commissioned pieces.
Beautiful in period design
Emerald and art-deco geometry are a natural pairing, and the emerald cut was developed for this stone specifically.
Character is expected
A visible jardin is normal rather than a fault, which makes emerald more forgiving on clarity than a diamond of the same price.
What to Watch
- Toughness, not hardness, is the issueEmerald out-scratches tsavorite garnet yet chips more easily than it.
- Oiling is normal but must be disclosedResin filling is more significant than traditional oiling and should be understood clearly.
- Never clean in an ultrasonicIt can strip the oil and worsen the appearance of the jardin.
- Protective settings are strongly advisedCorners and edges are where damage starts.
The Practical Facts
- Hardness
-
7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale
1 · TalcHarder than quartz, softer than sapphire10 · Diamond - Toughness
-
Low; prone to chipping
- Suited to
-
Engagement rings with a protective setting, pendants, dress rings
- Common treatment
-
Oiling, very common; resin filling also occurs
- Price range
-
£££ to ££££
- Birthstone
-
May
Hardness describes scratch resistance, not toughness. The two are different and both matter.
Setting It Well
Emerald suits protective settings. An emerald engagement ring can be beautiful, but a bezel, a lower profile and softened corners are wiser than exposed claws. Yellow gold flatters warmer Zambian stones; platinum and white gold suit cooler bluish-green Colombian material.
Emerald Questions We Are Asked Most
Can I have an emerald engagement ring?
Yes, with a suitable setting. A bezel or a low-profile design with protected corners makes an emerald ring entirely wearable. An exposed claw setting on a busy hand does not. We would always talk through the wearer's daily life before designing one.
What is a jardin?
The network of natural inclusions inside almost every emerald, from the French for garden. It is expected and often beautiful. What matters is whether inclusions reach the surface, affect durability, or have been heavily treated, and whether all of that is disclosed.
Why are emeralds oiled?
Oil fills surface-reaching fissures, which improves clarity and colour. It is a traditional, accepted treatment applied to the large majority of emeralds on the market. It is not permanent, so an emerald may need re-oiling over many years, and it rules out ultrasonic cleaning.
What is a good emerald alternative for daily wear?
Green sapphire is the most practical, at Mohs 9 with excellent toughness. Tsavorite garnet is brighter and more vivid, softer at 7 to 7.5 but structurally tougher than emerald. Neither is emerald, but both take daily wear far better.
The Diamond and Gemstone Guide
Every gemstone stone by stone, plus durability, treatments, ethical sourcing and grading reports.
Round
Pear
Princess
Emerald
Oval
Asscher
Cushion
Marquise
Radiant
Heart
