Ruby and other loose coloured gemstones

Ruby

The red corundum, and one of the few gemstones that outprices diamond

Chapter 10 of 22

Gemstone Education

About Ruby

Ruby is the red variety of corundum, the same mineral family as sapphire, and one of the great traditional precious gemstones. It carries associations with love, strength, passion and protection that no other stone quite matches.

Fine ruby can be more expensive than many diamonds. Colour drives that price more than anything else, particularly when the red is vivid and lively. Some rubies lean pink, some are deeper and more dramatic, and some have a softer antique glow.

At Mohs 9 it is durable enough for daily wear when chosen and set well, which makes it one of the best coloured gemstones for engagement rings and for meaningful bespoke work.

Colour

The Palette

Swatches are indicative. We will always show you the actual stone in more than one light.

Vivid redThe most valuable, and the rarest Pinkish redSofter and more romantic Deep redDramatic, verging on antique Antique glowSofter light, vintage feel
The Case For It

Why Ruby Works

Romantic engagement rings

The obvious alternative to a diamond when you want colour with genuine tradition behind it, and hard enough to justify the choice.

Anniversary and birthstone pieces

The July birthstone and the fortieth anniversary stone, which makes it a frequent choice for commissioned gifts.

Vintage-inspired design

Ruby sits naturally in cluster, milgrain and art-deco settings, and reads as period-appropriate in a way few coloured stones do.

Red accent stones

Small rubies as accents against diamond pavé give a graphic contrast that photographs beautifully.

Be Aware

What to Watch

  • Treatment disclosure matters more hereHeavily filled rubies should be approached carefully and priced accordingly.
  • Very dark stones lose their lifeA ruby that looks rich in the tray can read almost black once set.
  • Matching several rubies is expensiveFine ruby commands serious prices, and a matched row multiplies the problem.
  • Origin affects price sharplyBurmese ruby carries a premium that is not always visible in the stone.
At a Glance

The Practical Facts

Hardness

9 on the Mohs scale

1 · TalcSecond only to diamond10 · Diamond
Toughness

Excellent

Suited to

Engagement rings, anniversary jewellery, daily wear

Common treatment

Heat; filling also occurs and must be disclosed

Price range

£££ to ££££; fine ruby can exceed diamond

Birthstone

July

Hardness describes scratch resistance, not toughness. The two are different and both matter.

Design Note

Setting It Well

Rubies look strongest in yellow gold or platinum. Avoid very dark stones unless you specifically want a dramatic, antique feel. As with sapphire, a bezel or a lower profile suits a ring worn daily, though ruby's hardness means claw settings are perfectly viable.

Common Questions

Ruby Questions We Are Asked Most

Is ruby suitable for an engagement ring?

Yes. At Mohs 9 it is as hard as sapphire and takes daily wear well when set sensibly. It is one of only three stones, with diamond and sapphire, that we recommend without qualification for a ring worn every day.

Why is fine ruby so expensive?

Rarity. Large, clean, vividly red rubies are genuinely scarcer than diamonds of equivalent size, and the finest examples reach prices per carat that exceed almost any other gemstone.

What is a filled ruby?

A ruby whose surface-reaching fractures have been filled with lead glass to improve apparent clarity. It is a significant treatment that affects durability and limits cleaning and repair options. It must be disclosed, and it should be reflected in a much lower price.

What is the difference between ruby and pink sapphire?

Only the depth of colour. Both are corundum. Where the line falls between a light ruby and a deep pink sapphire is a judgement call, and it moves the price considerably, so it is worth asking how a stone has been classified and why.

The Diamond and Gemstone Guide
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The Diamond and Gemstone Guide

Every gemstone stone by stone, plus durability, treatments, ethical sourcing and grading reports.